Business and Pleasure
Kosmos Kid. Tyresö, Sweden
Sofia redpointed Kosmos Kid out on the Tyresö peninsula in the beginning of September. Most likely the second girl to climb this three star classic after Anna Gatta’s ascent 13 years ago. A good effort I’d say.
Sofia making the crux sequence look ridiculously easy.
Audun and Hilde doing homework and eating dinner at the crag while mummy is sending
Arc’teryx just launched an online journal called LITHOGRAPHICA.
“Good conversation is an exploration; it engages the mind, hosts many perspectives, changes direction and is designed to entertain. LITHOGRAPHICA is a quarterly journal of stories that seeks out ideas, shares knowledge and keep itself open to possibility. Welcome to our first issue.”
Demirkazick 3756 m.
Last summer (2012) Anita Rostén, Hampus Rääf, Sofia and myself embarked on a semi adventurous trip to the Aladaglar mountains in central Turkey. These pics have been wasting precious disc space on my PC for over a year now and finally I got the time to do something with them. All in all, a magnificent place to travel to for multi pitch limestone sports climbing with a touch of alpine.
Parmakkaya and Hampus
Hampus and Sofia contemplating.
Hampus amping up to charge into the run-out crux sequence on the third pitch of Mezza Luna Nascente on Parmakkaya east face (2880m)
“The mountain is that way”. Some fat dude pointing out the direction.
Scrambing up the first pitch of Orient on Pamakkaya, East Face.
Orient, Parmakkaya, Aladag Mountains
Buttshot. Orient.
Hampus on the Summit of Parmakkaya.
Summit…
Hampus starting up Rolando Larchers brilliant route Trans Aladaglar in the Kazliki Valley. This 40 m route wanders it’s way up continuously overhanging conglomerate limestone.
Trans Aladaglar.
Sofia, Kazikli Canyon
Recep Ince
Anita trying to figure out many quickdraws to bring…
East face of Güvercinlic vadisi, 3073m. Sofia and Anita made the 2nd ascent of “Pistache ta mére a des moustaches“. They thought the route would be a fully bolted clip up and racked up accordingly only to find that the 250 m route had only 5 bolts in total. This summed up to a little adventure.
Sofia on a sportaneering adventure. Photo, Anita Rostén.
Bivi under the west face of Güvercinlik kulesi III 3000 m or before attacking Come to Dervish.
Come to Derwish. The east face of Güvercinlik Vadisi visable in the back. The girls were having an adventure on that face at the same time as we were climbing.
Retards on Summit.
The mighty 600 m West face of Güvercinlik Kulesi, Tranga Tower.
Happy now.
My wife, Sofia!
Sofia following on “Vento D’estate” 325m 6c on Yelatan West face. Photo: Anita Rostén.
Me making the first ascent of “Master of puppets aka Why Not, Coconut” 40 m 8a just left of Trans Aladaglar. Hampus repeated it shortly after.
Sofia climbing Marrakesh, Kazikli Gorge
Anita Rostèn climbing Go Home
Hampus, Kazikli Gorge
Cappodoccia
Cappodoccia
Cappodoccia
Trippy rock formations. Cappodoccia.
Cappodoccia
Recep and Yonca
Cappodoccia
Photo: Erik Lindvall
Quite a while ago I got an article published in one of Swedens largest newspapers, Svenska Dagbladet. The article was published in the travels section and featured Jonas Wiklund’s, Erik Lindvall’s and my trip to the sandstone towers in Saxony which you can read here.
Photo: Erik Lindvall
Andy Winterleitner, Schnulleralarm, Pornowand, Frankenjura
Skywalker, Bärensluchtsgewände, Frankenura
Redpointing Leoline at Kvam, Sogndal
Leoline, Kvam, Sogndal
Audun, Jotunheimen
Hilde and Sofia snacking in Jotunheimen
Åna Sira, Rogaland. Crister Jansson and I climbed a very nice route on the steep wall in the middle. 6 or 7 pitches, moderate climbing, mostly cracks on nice rock.
Onsighting Kneip, Stryn,
Kneip, Stryn.
Briksdalsbreen
Briksdalsbreen
Sofia climbing Brillefin,Stryn.
Audun
New friends.
Jotunheimen
Hilde and friends
Cross over cuisine. Norway meets Asia.
Seatrout
Escaping the insanity at the outddor show in Fredrichshafen. Stefan on the way to Voralpsee, Switzerland.
Approaching Magic Woods in Averstal.
Last week I had to attend the Black Diamond sales meeting in Arlesheim in the Basel Jura. As usual i took the oppportunity to squeeze in a few days of climbing on the trip as well. A few weeks ago I got to know Daniel and Courtney when they stayed at my place while visiting Stockholm to participate in a comp/event at a local gym. They invited me to join them for a few days in Ticino when I came to Switzerland. Done deal and we had two bluebird days bouldering in Chironico and Magic Woods. As usual I mainly punted around but surprized myself by climbing Dave Graham’s Confessions of a Crap Artist in less than a handful of tries. Not quite as hard as the grade in the guide would suggest, not even close if you’d ask me. I climbed quite a few other problems given lower grades that felt harder and I guess that’s one of the reasons why I don’t bother so much about the grades anymore. I got a lot of problems done as well as got humbled on quite a few. Never the less the quality of the rock and the problems as well as the variety really made an impression on me, not to mention the setting. Definately a place to return to.
Daniel Woods coming very close on "Somewhere in Between"
It’s always nice to come down to Arlesheim in the Basel Jura for the sales meetings with BD. As usual we stayed at the Kloster in Dornach which is great, mind the bells of the monestary that go of at 6 am every morning. Quite annoying but a good incentive to get up and go running in the hills before the daily chores.
This time I stayed a couple of days after the meeting as well to hang out with the crew at BD and climb in the Jura. This area is not quite as well known outside the country as the Frankenjura but in many ways they resemble each other: Heaps of small jurassic limestone crags scattered around the lush forrested alpine foothills. The climbing is documented in what probably is the most beautiful guidebook available, the ”Fluebible” (the Crag Bible) and the climbing itself is not bad at all. Actually it’s so good that I concider a couple of the routes as some of the better I’ve climbed this year.
Tools of the trade. The best allround shoes ever...!? love these puppies. ...and a maté of coarse.
Lorenzo
Time to climb...
Amelie attempting Phèdre at Vermes in the Basel Jura.
Five stars, I'm obliged to agree.
BBQ at Casa Lorenzo
Casa Lorenzo
Ice climbing at it’s best; thin and delicate.
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