Ph: David Fält
Born: 1973 Brighton, UK
Bought my first climbing shoes 1992
Lives in Stockholm, Sweden
Dabbles in pretty much all disciplines of climbing
Husband to Sofia and a father of two children, Audun and Hilde
Dog owner
Enjoys running, fishing, sea kayaking, xc-skiing. Fresh air and natural light in general.
A few First Ascents
Bongo Bar (400m V 6+ A3), Blaaman, Kvalöya, Norway 1998
Flänsostpassagen (900m V scand7), Kjerag, Norway 1999
Bastillien (250m scand6+), Baugen, Norway 2000
Dark side of the moon (250m IV scand7-), Baugen, Kvalöya, Norway 2000
Fidel, scand 9-, Gullknausen, Kvalöya, Norway 2000
Kairos (250m IV scand 8-), Baugen, Kvalöya, Norway 2001
Quivitoq (900 m VI scand 8- A1), Tinninertup Quaquat, Greenland 2002
Life is Beautiful, First Free Ascent, (600 m VI 7c+), Nalumasortoq, Greenland 2009
Nagells Drömmedieder, (Scand 9-/9 8a+), Hanshelleren/Flatanger, Norway 2006
Massih Attack, (Scand 9 8b), Hanshelleren/Flatanger, Norway 2005
Hollänskt Porslin, 8b, Simonsberget, Sweden 2012
Bladerunner, M10 R trad (mixed/drytooling), Dyviksudde, Sweden 2010
Slipset First Free Ascent, 500 m scand 8-, Gloppedalen, Norway 2011
Roligheten 300 m scand6/7, Åna Sira, Norway 2012
Why Not, Coconut? aka Master of Puppets, 40m 8a+, Kazliki Valley, Aladaglar, Turkey 2012
Ronny Medelsvensson, scand 9 (8b) trad, Jössingfjord, Norway 2013
Baruk Khazád! M10, Fission Bowl, Rjukan, Norway 2014
Some pics in some sort of chronological order
1978 Fôret de Fontainbleau
1993 Katchoong, Mt Arapiles, Australia. This was pretty much where I discovered what climbing was all about…
1996, Rêve du Papillion. Buoux, France. One of my first routes graded 8a. To date I’ve climbed nearly 300 routes graded 8a or harder.
1998. Mårten Blixt belaying on South Pacific, A4, El Capitain, Yosemite Valley, Ca.
The route links South Seas into PO wall and is probably on of the wildest aidclimbs I’ve ever done. For a few years in the 90ies I was sucked into the game of classic big walling. First trip was in ’95 when we climbed The Nose on El Cap with literally no experience at all.
1998. “The American Zone pitch” on Aurora, El Cap. Ph: Ian Parnell
1998. Ian Parnell on the expanding “Gong flake” on Aurora.
2000. Maraton, Damtjern, Norway.
2000 Likely the first onsight of one of the most aesthetic crack line in Norway, HC Doseth’s legacy route Thanatos. Pic from a few years later, by Jonas Paulsson.
2002. Together with Mårten Blixt and Björn Krane we esablished a new route in the Tininnertoq Valley, Cape Farewell, Greenland. Our route follows a rather direct line up the east face of Tininnertup Quaquat and roughly follows the central prow where sun meets shadow.
2002. Mårten Blixt and I on the summit of Tininnertup Quaquat after the First Ascent of Quivitoq, VI 7a+ A1. Photo: Björn Krane
The Greenland 2004 crew in Nanortalik. Annika Bergqvist, Sofia Sandgren and Marco Kuppiainen
2004. The Barrel shaped Ulamatorsuaq. Marco Kuppiainen and I climbed Stefan Glowacs testemony, Moby Dick, VI 7c+ ground up in a singel push and nearly all free.
2004 Coming down from having climbed the Left Pillar Route aka British Route on Nalumasortoq with Marco Kupiainen. Nalu in the background.
2005. Climbing the classic south pillar on Kaga Tondo on Main du Fatma in Mali with Jonas Paulsson
2006 Satan Export, Hell, Norway.
2006. My first child, Audun, was born. Here me making the first ascent of Massih Attack 8b in Hanshelleren in Flatanger.
2009 Oskar Alexandersson and I climbed the First Free Ascent of “Life is Beautiful” 5.13- (7c+) on Nalumasortoq, Greenland.
2010 FFA of Slipset with Oskar Alexandersson.
2009 Flashing Thurneman M9+. Photo, Stefan Lindblom
2011 1st repeat of Tsunami M10 in Sala. One of the hardest mixed routes in Sweden.
2011 Patagonia. Stemming up a not to bad corner on the Pendulorama on Fitz’ North Pillar. No summit though. Photo: David Fält
2011 Patagonia. Photo. Thomas Meling
2012 FFA of Hollänskt Porslin. Photo: Jonas Paulsson
2013 Invidia 8b+, Grotta della Aeronauta, Sperlonga
2013 Drakguld 8A, Åland.
First ascent of Baruk Khazád! M10, Fission Bowl, Rjukan, Norway 2014 Ph: Erik Lindvall