Erik Massih Rotating Header Image

Bio

P1010838

Ph: David Fält

 

Born: 1973 Brighton, UK

Bought my first climbing shoes 1992

Lives in Stockholm, Sweden

Dabbles in pretty much all disciplines of climbing

Husband to Sofia and a father of two children, Audun and Hilde

Dog owner

Enjoys running, fishing, sea kayaking, xc-skiing. Fresh air and natural light in general.

 

A few First Ascents

Bongo Bar (400m V 6+ A3), Blaaman, Kvalöya, Norway 1998

Flänsostpassagen  (900m V scand7), Kjerag, Norway 1999

Bastillien (250m scand6+), Baugen, Norway 2000

Dark side of the moon (250m IV scand7-), Baugen, Kvalöya, Norway 2000

Fidel, scand 9-, Gullknausen, Kvalöya, Norway 2000

Kairos (250m IV scand 8-), Baugen, Kvalöya, Norway 2001

Quivitoq (900 m VI scand 8- A1), Tinninertup Quaquat, Greenland 2002

Life is Beautiful, First Free Ascent, (600 m VI 7c+), Nalumasortoq, Greenland 2009

Nagells Drömmedieder, (Scand 9-/9 8a+), Hanshelleren/Flatanger, Norway 2006

Massih Attack, (Scand 9 8b), Hanshelleren/Flatanger, Norway 2005

Hollänskt Porslin, 8b, Simonsberget, Sweden 2012

Bladerunner, M10 R trad (mixed/drytooling), Dyviksudde, Sweden 2010

Slipset First Free Ascent, 500 m  scand 8-, Gloppedalen, Norway 2011

Roligheten 300 m scand6/7, Åna Sira, Norway 2012

Why Not, Coconut? aka Master of Puppets, 40m 8a+, Kazliki Valley, Aladaglar, Turkey 2012

Ronny Medelsvensson, scand 9 (8b) trad, Jössingfjord, Norway 2013

Baruk Khazád! M10, Fission Bowl, Rjukan, Norway 2014

 

 

 

 

Some pics in some sort of chronological order

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1978 Fôret de Fontainbleau

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1993 Katchoong, Mt Arapiles, Australia. This was pretty much where I discovered what climbing was all about…

1996, Rêve du Papillion. Buoux, one of my first routes graded 8a.

1996, Rêve du Papillion. Buoux, France. One of my first routes graded 8a. To date I’ve climbed nearly 300 routes graded 8a or harder.

1998. Mårten Blixt belaying on South Pacific, A4, El Capitain, Yosemite Valley, Ca.  The route links South Seas into PO wall and is probably on of the wildest aidclimbs I've ever done. For a few years in the 90ies I was sucked into the game of classic big walling. First trip was in '95 when we climbed The Nose on El Cap with literally no experience at all.

1998. Mårten Blixt belaying on South Pacific, A4, El Capitain, Yosemite Valley, Ca.
The route links South Seas into PO wall and is probably on of the wildest aidclimbs I’ve ever done. For a few years in the 90ies I was sucked into the game of classic big walling. First trip was in ’95 when we climbed The Nose on El Cap with literally no experience at all.

1998. "The American Zone pitch"on  Aurora, A4, El Cap. Ph: Ian Parnell

1998. “The American Zone pitch” on Aurora, El Cap. Ph: Ian Parnell

Ian Parnell on the expanding "Gongflake" on Aurora.

1998. Ian Parnell on the expanding “Gong flake” on Aurora.

 

2000. Maraton, Damtjern, Norway. First 8b.

2000. Maraton, Damtjern, Norway.

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2000 Likely the first onsight of one of the most aesthetic crack line in Norway, HC Doseth’s legacy route Thanatos. Pic from a few years later, by Jonas Paulsson.

 

2002. Together with Mårten Blixt and Björn Krane in Greenland. We esablished a new route in the Tininnertoq Valley

2002. Together with Mårten Blixt and Björn Krane we esablished a new route in the  Tininnertoq Valley, Cape Farewell, Greenland. Our route follows a rather direct line up the east face of Tininnertup Quaquat and roughly follows the central prow where sun meets shadow.

2002. Mårten Blixt, Björn Krane( holding the camera) on the summit of Tininnertup Quaquat after the First Ascent of Quivitoq, VI 7a+ A1

2002. Mårten Blixt and I on the summit of Tininnertup Quaquat after the First Ascent of Quivitoq, VI 7a+ A1. Photo: Björn Krane

 

The Greenland 2004 crew in Nanortalik. Annika Bergqvist, Sofia Sandgren and Marco Kuppiainen

The Greenland 2004 crew in Nanortalik. Annika Bergqvist, Sofia Sandgren and Marco Kuppiainen

2004. Ulamatorsuaq. Marco Kuppiainen and I climbed Stefan Glowacs testemony Moby Dick, VI 7c+ ground up in a singel push and nearly all free, On sighted the crux pitch but fell higer up.

2004. The Barrel shaped Ulamatorsuaq. Marco Kuppiainen and I climbed Stefan Glowacs testemony, Moby Dick, VI 7c+ ground up in a singel push and nearly all free.

 

Coming down from having climbed the Left Pillar Route aka British Route on Nalumasortoq with Marco Kupiainen.

2004 Coming down from having climbed the Left Pillar Route aka British Route on Nalumasortoq with Marco Kupiainen. Nalu in the background.

 

2005. Climbing the classic south pillar on Kaga Tondo with Jonas Paulsson

2005. Climbing the classic south pillar on Kaga Tondo on Main du Fatma in Mali with Jonas Paulsson

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2006 Satan Export, Hell, Norway.

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2006. My first child, Audun, was born. Here me making the first ascent of Massih Attack 8b in Hanshelleren in Flatanger.

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2009 Oskar Alexandersson and I climbed the First Free Ascent of “Life is Beautiful” 5.13- (7c+) on Nalumasortoq, Greenland.

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2010 FFA of Slipset with Oskar Alexandersson.

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2009 Flashing Thurneman M9+. Photo, Stefan Lindblom

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2011 1st repeat of Tsunami M10 in Sala. One of the hardest mixed routes in Sweden.

Stemming up a not to bad corner on the Pendulorama. Photo: David Fält

2011 Patagonia. Stemming up a not to bad corner on the Pendulorama on Fitz’ North Pillar. No summit though. Photo: David Fält

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2011 Patagonia. Photo. Thomas Meling

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2012 FFA of Hollänskt Porslin. Photo: Jonas Paulsson

Invidia, 8b+, Grotta della Aeronauta, Sperlonga

2013 Invidia 8b+, Grotta della Aeronauta, Sperlonga

 

Drakguld, 8A, Åland.

2013 Drakguld 8A, Åland.

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First ascent of Baruk Khazád! M10, Fission Bowl, Rjukan, Norway 2014 Ph: Erik Lindvall